The Ensign Ewart in Leith

Ah, The Ensign Ewart – it's one of those pubs that just captures the heart of Edinburgh, doesn't it? Perched right up on the Royal Mile near the castle, it's got this inviting, old-school Scottish feel with wooden beams and a snug atmosphere that pulls you in from the get-go. I love how they've kept that historical essence alive since the 1680s, while still keeping things fresh with a rotating selection of around 250 whiskies – it's not the biggest out there, but it's got some real gems that change up regularly, perfect for a wee tasting session with mates. The staff are an absolute joy; they're so approachable and keen to chat about recommendations, which really makes the place stand out. Plus, the live music in the evenings, like those folk tunes on guitar and fiddle, adds a magical touch that can turn a simple night out into something memorable. On the food front, their lighter bites are spot on – think scrumptious Scotch pies and local charcuterie at great prices – but if you're hoping for a full-blown meal, it might fall a bit short. And honestly, while it's a gem, do keep in mind the steps at the entrance and the lack of accessible facilities; it's not ideal for folks with mobility needs. Overall, it's a brilliant spot for whisky lovers or anyone wanting a genuine, relaxed Edinburgh experience, but it's worth weighing up those little niggles to ensure it's the right fit for your group.